The shirt, to your measure.
Luxury bespoke shirts for men, avenue Hoche, Paris 8th.
The foundation of everything you wear, a shirt cut for you changes your silhouette, your posture, your presence. The collar sits just so, the cuff shows a centimetre beyond the jacket sleeve, and the tails stay tucked in from the first meeting to the last dinner.
01 · Shirts
Why choose a bespoke shirt?
Because it is the piece you wear most often, and the one that touches your skin. Cut for your body and the way you wear it, it is forgotten the moment you put it on: the collar follows your neck, the shoulder falls where it should, the back stays clean beneath the jacket.
I take every measurement, from your neck to your wrists, down to the extra room your watch calls for; from them I draw a pattern in your name, kept and refined with every shirt. I have been designing shirts this way in Paris since 2005, and on avenue Hoche since 2015.
02 · Shirts
Which collar for a bespoke shirt?
The collar frames the face: it is what the eye goes to first, and it sets the tone for everything else. With you, I set its band height, the length of its points and their spread, according to your neck, the width of your lapels and the way you wear a tie or a bow tie. All of this is decided in front of the mirror.
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The Italian collar
Open, with wide-set points: it takes a generous tie knot and sits well with broad lapels.
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The French collar
The most versatile, with medium points, worn with or without a tie.
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The cutaway collar
Very open, almost horizontal: an assured look, for a fuller knot.
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The button-down collar
The points button onto the front: the shirt for weekends and days without a tie.
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The wing collar
The points folded forward, reserved for the bow tie and the bespoke tuxedo.
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The band collar
A simple collar stand, straight and clean, for a pared-back elegance.
03 · Shirts
Cuff, placket, pleats: which details to choose?
Three decisions make a shirt, and they are taken together, in the salon, in front of the mirror.
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The cuff
Barrel, with one or two buttons; rounded, to soften the line; double, folded back on itself for your cufflinks and the only choice with a dinner suit. The left cuff can be widened by a few millimetres to make room for your watch.
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The placket
A classic placket, set on and topstitched; a concealed placket, which hides the buttons for a pure line beneath the tie; or a French front, with no placket at all, cleaner still.
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Pleats, darts and cut
Two back darts for a fitted cut; a centre box pleat, or two side pleats at the shoulder blades, for an easier one. Fitted, straight or relaxed: the cut is decided by your build and the way you move, and the length by whether the shirt is worn tucked in or out.
Italian collar, English collar, open collar: each style is presented in the salon to be tried on. The height of the stand, the spread and the length of the points are adjusted to your face.
Rounded, angled or square, with one or two buttons: the single cuff is drawn around your watch and your habits. Your initials can be embroidered on it.
Folded back on itself and fastened with cufflinks, the double cuff goes with the suit for great occasions, all the way to the dinner suit and ceremonial dress.
A card of buttons lets the shirt be matched to the jacket or the tie. Coloured buttons and buttonholes are among the colour matches available from the Découverte collection upwards.
The inside of the collar or cuff, or the gusset at the shirt tail, can take a contrasting cloth, revealed only with a gesture. A colour match offered from the Découverte collection upwards.
Four buttons set in a cascade, overlapping slightly. Their number, their material and the colour of the thread that holds them are decided together, in the salon.
Tone on tone here, sleeve buttonholes can also be embroidered in colour. An option available from the Découverte collection upwards, revealed only with a gesture.
Embroidered on the shirt cuff, the initials appear just below the jacket sleeve. A personal signature, visible for the length of a gesture.
A heathered tweed in grey, brown and blue, with a soft drape. For a winter jacket, the cloth is chosen from the swatch books in the salon, by touch as much as by eye.
Touch a gold point to look closer.
04 · Shirts
The finishes that make the shirt yours
A bespoke shirt is recognised by what shows only at close quarters. Touch a gold dot to see each finish photographed here: the collar, the cuff, the buttonhole, the initials.
- The mother-of-pearl buttonsreal mother-of-pearl, thick and cool to the touch, sewn on to last.
- The seamsfine and closely stitched, felled to lie flat against the skin, reinforced at the sides.
- The coloured buttonholesa contrasting thread on the last buttonhole, on the cuff or all the way down the placket.
- The initialsembroidered on the chest, the cuff or at the waist, in the thread and lettering of your choice.
05 · Shirts
Which fabrics for a bespoke shirt?
A shirting cotton is chosen as a suit cloth is: by touch, in daylight, and with its purpose in mind.
- Poplinsmooth, crisp, with a slight sheen: the white or blue shirt worn with a suit.
- Twilla diagonal weave, supple and slow to crease: the companion of long days and travel.
- Oxfordheavier, with a visible grain: the button-down shirt, from the office to the weekend.
- End-on-endlight and dark threads alternating, a discreet mottled effect that gives depth beneath a jacket.
- Linencool and lively, for summer and weddings in the sun.
- Cotton flannelbrushed and warm, for winter and more relaxed dressing.
I show you the cloths in the salon, swatch book in hand: cottons from Thomas Mason and the great shirting houses — poplins, twills, oxfords, end-on-ends — and the linens of summer. All of them sit within the house's four ranges, from Découverte to Signature.
06 · Shirts
For which occasion?
I compose each shirt for the life it will lead. For the office, a poplin or a twill, plain or finely striped. At the weekend, oxford, linen or chambray, with a button-down collar. For a wedding, optic white, double cuffs and your embroidered initials. In the evening, with the tuxedo, a bib front and a wing collar.
For women, shirts and blouses begin in just the same way: with a pattern in your name, in poplin, silk or linen, with an Italian, pussy-bow or band collar.
07 · The collections
How much does a luxury bespoke shirt cost?
A bespoke shirt starts at €220, cloth included. From one level to the next, the share of handwork rises and the cottons grow rarer; the final price is set with you, in the salon.
Level 01 · 20% of the work by hand
Découverte
The doorway to bespoke.
Your first shirt on your own pattern, in the poplins and twills of the Découverte range. Every style option is open to you.
Cloth ranges available
- Découverte
- Maison (not included)
- Privilège (not included)
- Signature (not included)
Level 02 · 30% of the work by hand
Mesure
More structure, more choice.
The cottons of the great houses, in the Maison range: poplin, twill, oxford, end-on-end.
Cloth ranges available
- Découverte
- Maison
- Privilège (not included)
- Signature (not included)
Level 03 · 50% of the work by hand
Top Line — The house's choice
The collar and cuffs are finished by hand.
The house's choice. The Privilège range opens to you, Thomas Mason cottons among them. This is the natural companion to a suit in the Premium collection.
Cloth ranges available
- Découverte
- Maison
- Privilège
- Signature (not included)
Level 04 · 80% of the work by hand
Fait main
Full bespoke, the summit of the house.
Eighty per cent of the work done by hand, and the rarest cottons of the Signature range: for the occasions that matter, and for those who want to feel the hand each time they put it on.
Cloth ranges available
- Découverte (not included)
- Maison (not included)
- Privilège
- Signature
08 · Shirts
How long does a bespoke shirt take?
Three to six weeks. We always begin with a trial shirt: you wear it, you wash it, then we adjust your pattern before cutting the rest. Washing reveals what a fitting cannot: a collar that tightens, a sleeve that rides up by half a centimetre.
- The meetinga first conversation, at the atelier or by video call: your habits, your collars, your ties.
- The measuringan hour on avenue Hoche: your measurements, your shirt pattern, the choice of cottons and details.
- The trial shirtworn, washed, adjusted.
- The ordercomposed in your private salon, cotton by cotton.
- And afteryour pattern is kept: every new shirt starts from it.
A shirt is designed alongside the bespoke suit it will be worn with; for a wedding, the groom's shirts and his best men's are composed together — see the bespoke wedding suit. To begin, book a private consultation, on avenue Hoche or by video call.
Frequently asked questions
What we are asked
How much does a bespoke shirt cost in Paris?
At L'Atelier Hoche, a bespoke shirt starts at €220, cloth included, in the Découverte collection. Allow €280 in Mesure, €380 in Top Line, the house's choice, and €480 in Fait main. The difference lies in how much of the work is done by hand and in the cloths open at each level; the final price is set with you, in the salon, cotton in hand.
How long does a bespoke shirt take?
Three to six weeks from measuring to delivery. We begin with a trial shirt: you wear it, you wash it, then we adjust your pattern before making the rest. If a date lies ahead, a wedding or a new post, tell us at our very first meeting: the schedule works back from it.
Which collar should I choose for a bespoke shirt?
The right collar depends on your face, your neck, your lapels and your tie. The Italian collar, open, takes a generous knot; the French collar remains the most versatile; the cutaway has an assured air; the button-down is worn without a tie; the wing collar belongs to the dinner suit. Band height and point length are set in front of the mirror.
Why a trial shirt before the rest of the order?
Because washing reveals what a fitting cannot. A cotton tightens slightly, a collar sits differently, a sleeve may ride up by half a centimetre. You wear the trial shirt for a few days, you wash it, and we carry every correction over to your pattern: the order then comes out right from the very first shirt.
Should I bring my jacket to be measured?
Yes, if the shirt is to be worn with a jacket you already own. We then set the sleeve length so that the cuff shows by about a centimetre. If you order a shirt and a suit together, the two patterns are coordinated at the same appointment, with nothing more asked of you.