The coat, to your measure.
Bespoke coats and overcoats for men, avenue Hoche, Paris 8th.
It is the first thing people see of you, the final touch to a silhouette, and the piece you keep the longest. Single-breasted, double-breasted or overcoat, in cashmere or camel hair: I design it to be worn over your suit and to see you through ten winters and more.
01 · Overcoats
Why a bespoke coat?
A coat is worn over everything else: cut for you, it does justice to all it covers. I take your measurements with your jacket on, so that the coat takes the jacket with ease, the shoulder keeps its line and the back falls straight. It gains character with the years, like the living cloths it is cut from.
Every coat I design carries the mark of three traditions: the precision of English cutting, the softness of Italian drape, the finesse of French detail. Since 2005, and on avenue Hoche since 2015, this is the balance I fit to you, at the atelier.
Warmth, without the weight. In our Relax world, it is the cashmere coat for the weekend, for travel, for a walk in Parc Monceau.
02 · Overcoats
Which bespoke coat should you choose?
Five cuts cover most needs, from town to travel. The right choice starts with what you will wear beneath it: over a suit, the coat needs ease at the shoulders and a length that covers the jacket; over knitwear, the line can be closer.
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The single-breasted coat
One row of buttons, knee length, notch lapels. It is worn over a suit as readily as over knitwear: the most versatile of all.
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The double-breasted coat
Six buttons, peak lapels, a defined shoulder. More presence, more warmth: the coat for long winters.
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The Chesterfield
Single-breasted, with a velvet collar, flap pockets and, often, a fly front. The most restrained of town coats, from the office to the evening, as right over a dinner suit as over a business suit.
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The polo coat
Double-breasted, with patch pockets and a half belt at the back, often in camel hair: the coat for well-dressed weekends.
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The overcoat
Longer and lighter, it goes over the suit in spring and autumn, and folds without fuss for travel.
03 · Overcoats
Which cloth for a bespoke coat?
Cashmere is still the most coveted: soft and, for the same warmth, lighter. Loro Piana and Piacenza are its great names; Ermenegildo Zegna and Dormeuil add their wool blends. Double-faced wool, camel hair, heavy flannel and tweed complete the palette. A coat cloth is chosen by touch and by weight, swatch book in hand, in daylight; our four cloth ranges offer a first glimpse.
Allow 450 to 600 grams per metre for a town coat worn all winter, and around 300 grams for a spring or autumn overcoat. Weight decides warmth, but also drape: a heavy cloth holds a straight line, a light one follows the movement.
04 · Overcoats
Collar, length, half belt: which details for your coat?
A coat is judged from behind and in motion: that is where its details tell. We choose them on your avatar, then refine them at the fitting.
- The lengthat or below the knee, always long enough to cover the jacket.
- The collarnotch or peak lapels, a velvet collar, a collar that turns up against the wind.
- The Milanese buttonholeour signature, on the lapel of the coat as on that of the jacket; tone on tone, or in a colour that answers the lining.
- The buttoningsingle-breasted, double-breasted or fly front; horn or plaited leather buttons.
- The pocketsflap, patch, a ticket pocket, an inside pocket for phone and passport.
- The backcentre vent, half belt, action pleat.
The lining shows every time the coat opens: Bemberg or silk, plain or printed, it carries your initials, embroidered in the thread of your choice.
05 · Overcoats
How much does a bespoke coat cost?
A bespoke coat starts at €1,150, cloth included. It can be cut in any of our collections, with the share of handwork and the cloth range set out in the pyramid of suit collections; cashmere and the rare cloths of the Privilège and Signature ranges are reflected in the price. The exact figure is settled once the cloth and its weight are chosen. The coat is also cut for women, alongside bespoke tailoring for women; and on days without a coat, the bespoke blouson takes over.
06 · Overcoats
From measuring to the first cold days: how does a coat take shape?
Everything begins with a conversation, at the atelier or by video call, about your winters: the city, the car, travel. Then an hour on avenue Hoche, where you are measured over your jacket, the one you will wear beneath, and the cloth is chosen. At the two or three fittings, the jacket stays on your shoulders: we adjust the ease, the length and the fall of the back. Three to six weeks after the measuring, the coat is yours.
Frequently asked questions
What we are asked
How much does a bespoke cashmere coat cost?
A bespoke coat starts at €1,150, cloth included; pure cashmere sits higher, depending on the cloth house and the weight. A wool and cashmere blend strikes a fine balance between softness, body and lightness. The final price is set with you, at the atelier, cloth in hand.
What weight of cloth should I choose for a coat?
For a town coat worn all winter, aim for 450 to 600 grams per metre: the cloth holds its shape and keeps out the cold without weighing on the shoulder. For spring and autumn, or for travel, a lighter overcoat of around 300 grams is enough. We put both in your hands at the atelier.
Is a bespoke coat worn over a jacket?
Yes, that is how we cut it. The coat is measured with your jacket on, so that the armhole and the breadth across the shoulders take the jacket without crushing it. The length covers the jacket and is set by your height and the coat's purpose: at the knee for town, below the knee for an overcoat.
When should I order a bespoke coat?
Three to six weeks from measuring to delivery, with two to three fittings in Paris. To wear it from the first cold days, come and see us at the end of summer: you will choose from the full range of winter cloths, before the finest lengths are gone.
Do you also make coats for women?
Yes. Single-breasted, double-breasted or belted, in cashmere, double-faced wool or camel hair, I cut a woman's coat on her own pattern, so that it goes over a suit or knitwear without crushing anything. It is composed like a jacket, from collar to lining, and fitted in Paris, at the atelier.