The jacket, to your measure.
Bespoke jackets and blazers for men, avenue Hoche, Paris 8th.
There is one piece that, by itself, lifts an entire outfit: the jacket. With flannels, it dresses you up; with jeans, it gives shape; over an open-necked shirt, it makes a statement. Blazer, tweed jacket or unstructured jacket: I draw it on a pattern that bears your name, in an exceptional cloth, down to the details you alone will have decided.
01 · Jackets
Why a bespoke jacket?
A jacket announces, before you do, the care you take over your appearance. Everything starts at the shoulder. Cut on a pattern that bears your name, your jacket follows the line of your shoulders, falls straight down the back and leaves the arm unhindered when you hold out your hand. The collar settles at the nape, the waist is drawn in, the length serves your silhouette.
Elegance, tie undone. This is the signature of our Smart casual world: the jacket that goes from the office to dinner, from Friday into the weekend, without ever letting its guard down.
02 · Jackets
Which bespoke jacket should you choose?
Two choices make a jacket: the school of cut, which decides the shoulder and the construction, and the model, which decides how it will be worn. First the six schools of the house; then the four jackets that cover almost every occasion.
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The house style
The balance between English structure and Italian suppleness: a fitted cut, with ease allowed for a full day, the Milanese buttonhole on the lapel.
The man who wants to be impeccable at 9 am and at ease at 11 pm.
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The English
A built-up, clean shoulder, a defined waist, side vents, a ticket pocket, cloths with a dense hand.
The man of counsel, of banking, of tradition: authority through structure.
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The Italian
A natural shoulder, sometimes a shirt shoulder, a light and supple jacket, fuller lapels, three buttons rolled to two.
The man who wants elegance without stiffness, from Milan to Naples.
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The modern
Cut close to the body, slimmer lapels, a shorter jacket that shows the waist and lengthens the leg.
Entrepreneurs, the new generation in business.
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The statement
Six-button double-breasted, broad peak lapels, textured cloths or bold colours.
The man who wants his jacket noticed as much as he is.
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The classic
Single-breasted with two buttons, notch lapels, proven lines.
The jacket that never dates, from the meeting room to dinner.
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The blazer
Navy, charcoal or burgundy, it is worn on its own, with grey flannels, cotton trousers or jeans. Single- or double-breasted, with horn, mother-of-pearl or metal buttons: it is the jacket you will wear most often, and the one that says most about you.
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Tweed and patterned jackets
Herringbone, Prince of Wales check, houndstooth, windowpane. Worn with plain trousers, they make an outfit of separates; we guide you through contrast and balance.
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The unstructured jacket
Light and supple, with a shirt shoulder, lightly lined or unlined. In linen, in silk and wool or in fresco wool, it is the companion of summer, weekends and travel.
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The evening jacket
Jacquard, shawl-collared velvet or satin lapels: the jacket for evenings out, a cousin of the bespoke tuxedo, as much at home with tuxedo trousers as with jeans.
03 · Jackets
Single- or double-breasted?
The single-breasted jacket is the most versatile; the double-breasted has more presence and is worn closed. A two-button single-breasted suits almost every figure; with three buttons rolled to two, it takes on a Neapolitan accent. A six-button double-breasted lengthens the torso and marks the shoulders: it demands an exact cut, for it forgives no error at the waist. We try both on your avatar before deciding.
04 · Jackets
Which cloth for a bespoke jacket?
The jacket is the piece where cloth speaks most freely. Winter calls for tweed, flannel and cashmere, which Loro Piana and Piacenza have made their art; the in-between seasons for the serges and hopsacks of Vitale Barberis Canonico or Ermenegildo Zegna; summer for linen, silk and fresco wools, as open in weave as a canvas. Holland & Sherry and Dormeuil complete the palette of patterns, which must be judged from a distance as well as up close: we look at them together, swatch book in hand, among our cloths and their four ranges.
05 · Jackets
Which details make an exceptional jacket?
What sets a bespoke jacket apart often comes down to a few millimetres: the width of a lapel, the placing of a pocket, the thickness of a shoulder. Everything is decided with you.
Two shades on a single buttonhole: royal blue and white, matched to the pick stitching. The house signature, the Milanese buttonhole comes with every collection, in the colour of your choice.
An even white stitch traces the edge of the lapel against the blue of the cloth. From the Premium collection upwards, pick stitching can be done by hand, depending on the collection.
It carries the same white pick stitching. It can hold a square cut from the lining, left to show like a pocket square, or a pocket square chosen separately: matching, or entirely off-key.
A blue herringbone flecked with white, in conversation with the pick stitching. The cloth guides the choice of thread: colour matching is available from the Découverte collection upwards.
The stitching runs from the lapel to the bottom of the front in a single line. A detail that lightens the look of the jacket, at the office as at the weekend.
Black piping edges the lapel in a clean line. On a checked flannel, the contrast draws the silhouette and gives the sports jacket all its character.
A lapel buttonhole in sky blue, picking up the check of the cloth. Buttonhole, collar or sleeve colour: these options are available from the Découverte collection upwards.
The breast pocket carries the same black piping. A quiet common thread links the lapel, the chest and the lower pockets, and gives the whole its coherence.
Patch pockets with rounded corners, their openings edged in contrast piping. From the Premium collection upwards, pocket finishes can be done by hand, depending on the collection.
Four mother-of-pearl buttons at the end of the sleeve. Their number, their material and the colour of the thread that holds them are decided together, in the salon.
Buttoned shoulder tabs, a nod to shooting jackets. A sporting detail to choose, or to leave aside, depending on how you will wear the jacket.
Four buttons set in a cascade, overlapping slightly. Their number, their material and the colour of the thread that holds them are decided together, in the salon.
Tone on tone here, sleeve buttonholes can also be embroidered in colour. An option available from the Découverte collection upwards, revealed only with a gesture.
Embroidered on the shirt cuff, the initials appear just below the jacket sleeve. A personal signature, visible for the length of a gesture.
A heathered tweed in grey, brown and blue, with a soft drape. For a winter jacket, the cloth is chosen from the swatch books in the salon, by touch as much as by eye.
Embroidered in relief over a cord, the Milanese buttonhole is the house signature, found in every collection. Here in blue, white and red, on a charcoal flannel.
Along the lapel, small blue stitches echo the stripe of the cloth. From the Premium collection upwards, this pick stitching can be done by hand, depending on the collection.
From the Premium collection upwards, the collar and shoulders are set by hand: the lapel rolls naturally and the jacket hugs the nape of the neck.
The blue of the fine stripe returns in the buttonhole and in the pick stitching. Matching the colours, from thread to cloth, is possible from the Découverte collection upwards.
Beneath the jacket, a bespoke shirt with a crisp, structured white collar. Height, spread, point length: each collar is drawn in the salon, to suit your face.
Touch a gold point to look closer.
- The lapelnotch, peak or shawl, cut to the width of your shoulders.
- The Milanese buttonholeour signature, across every collection; tone on tone, or in colour.
- The shoulderbuilt-up, natural or shirt shoulder: it decides the jacket’s bearing.
- The pocketsflapped, jetted, patch pockets for the country jacket, a ticket pocket, a barchetta breast pocket.
- The buttonshorn, mother-of-pearl, corozo or metal; working sleeve buttonholes.
- Coloured buttonholeson the lapel, the collar, the sleeve: available from the Découverte collection upwards.
- Hand finishingpick stitching, pocket finishing, front buttonholes, depending on the collection.
Inside lies your jacket’s secret: its lining. It reveals itself the moment you open the jacket, and this is where your personality speaks most openly. Bemberg or silk, plain or printed: I show you more than 400. Your initials are embroidered there, in the thread of your choice.
06 · Jackets
How much does a bespoke jacket cost?
A bespoke jacket starts at €980, cloth included, in the Découverte collection: half-canvassed, the armhole set by hand, a Milanese buttonhole. It can then be cut in any of our collections — fully canvassed from Mesure, collar and shoulders set by hand from Premium — all set out in the pyramid of suit collections. The price is fixed on the day of measuring, once the cloth is chosen.
07 · Jackets
How is a bespoke jacket made?
Allow three to six weeks. After a first conversation, at the atelier or by video call, an hour on avenue Hoche is enough to take your measurements and choose the cloth in daylight. Your jacket then takes shape on your avatar: lapels, buttons and pockets are all there to see before it is cut. Then come two to three fittings, in a toile should you wish, to settle the shoulder and the fall of the back; the last takes place at the atelier, pin in hand. To complete the look, consider bespoke trousers, matching or as separates.
Frequently asked questions
What we are asked
How much does a bespoke jacket cost in Paris?
A bespoke jacket starts at €980, cloth included, in the Découverte collection. From there, the price follows the construction, the share of handwork and the cloth, according to the pyramid of our collections, from Mesure up to full bespoke in the Sartoriale collection. A tweed, a cashmere or a silk blend is priced differently; the final price is set with you at the atelier, cloth in hand.
What is the difference between a blazer and a suit jacket?
A blazer is worn on its own; a suit jacket, with its matching trousers. The blazer is cut from a cloth with more character — serge, flannel or hopsack — often navy, with buttons meant to be seen. The suit jacket shares the cloth and the proportions of its trousers. Both are born of the same pattern, in your name.
How long does a bespoke jacket take?
Three to six weeks from measuring to delivery, depending on the collection and the cloth, with two to three fittings in Paris. If you have a date, a trip or a season in mind, tell us at our first meeting: we plan the fittings around it.
Can a bespoke jacket be worn with jeans?
Yes. It is, in fact, one of the uses the odd jacket is designed for. We then adjust the length and the shoulder for a tieless look: a slightly shorter jacket, a natural shoulder, a textured cloth such as tweed, flannel or linen. Wear the jeans to your fitting, and we will set everything against them.